This year it is 75 years ago that the Allies tried to liberate the Netherlands through Operation Market Garden. During the Airborne Freedom Trail we walk a similar route as the paratroopers from the Ginkel Heath to the ‘Bridge too far’ in Arnhem: 44 km.
The Airborne Freedom Trail would be my longest distance so far: 44 km with 400 altimeters (road equivalent 48 km). The ultra in the title does not refer to the slightly longer distance than the marathon, but to the experience.
Even before the trail started we received a whole booklet with what we would see along the way. The trail is an experience, not a race, was also the motto. With stops at a balsawood glider from which the paratroopers jumped, the little church where the British held out until the very end, and the military cemetery. By errors in judgment the allies did not succeed in driving away the Germans in Market Garden. That makes this trip extra sad.
Time limit
Although the trail was an experience and not a race, it didn't feel that way to me. It is a race from point to point. From topport center Papendal we went by bus to the start. Six hours after the start on the dropzone Ginkelse Heide – during the battle it was even on fire because of the mortarfire – we had to be inside Arnhem. Otherwise the last bus would have left back to the dressing rooms in Papendal… The distance was not the problem, especially on the trails. But 6 hours… Would I make it with a marathon time of 5 hours, 9 minutes and 18 seconds.
To be on the safe side, I assume that I can at least walk back to Arnhem station, even though I have a lift from Papendal. I put all my stuff in the dropbag for the finish. I also decide to only start in the first group, which leaves 20 minutes earlier than the last group and that gives me some extra time.
Starting alone is actually a shame. Because of its special character, this trail attracts almost all known trail friends. RMD was there with a large group, Olav Sammelius and the – now – Instinctgirls were there, half the Lanzarote group was present, and so on. Still, I think choosing my own pace was the best decision, because all of the other runners were faster. And just this day I had to try to keep my head clear.
Army tent
To give us a good idea of the history, the run first starts with a bit of history. From 17 September 1944, 12,000 paratroopers landed on the moors in a short time to come to relieve Arnhem and take control of the river crossings through which the D-Day Liberation Army could march to Berlin. John Frost and his men soon reached the strategically important bridge at Arnhem, but the German army in the area proved stronger than anticipated and the remaining troops were unable to advance any further. Ultimately Frost was able to hold out until 21 September. Then the Allies withdrew. Thousands of soldiers died in this operation.
After the speech we all went into a big army tent. It was very hot in the tent because of the sun, we smelled that special smell of old army canvas and listened with bated breath and closed eyes to the engine sounds of the planes. Then the tent flaps opened and the sun burned in. Our mission had begun.
Pressure in the head
The first few kilometers I felt a continuous compulsion to be fast, to keep following others. With every runner that passed me, I looked to see if it was someone I knew. I expected the Lanzarote crew to overtake me quickly. I suspected to be overtaken by Frank Dorenbos and his group of RMD runners halfway: all of them are much faster at the marathon than I am.
In this self-imposed haste, the pressure of work also started to play a role again. Certain persons, by whom I feel deeply hurt, caused unrest and anger. It was inevitable that I stumbled in a dark part of the forest. Over a tiny tree root on an otherwise flat path… Knees and elbows open, under the mud; my deserved reward for being so distracted. But also very discharging. Afterwards I walked a lot calmer. Or zen, as Anik said with the photo below, which was taken a short time later.
Refreshment centre
Just before the first aid station I was passed by the Lanzaroters. Since that post was only at about 14 kilometers, I thought I was reasonably on schedule, even including the fall.
As loyal readers already know, these days I use a mixture of foods to keep blood sugars stable. First of all Generation Ucan, a starch drink that slowly converts to sugars, next to that even faster sports drink (Torq Orange this time) and occasionally a gel or nougat. This time, before the run – start at 1pm – I emptied a first bottle of Ucan and administered 3 units less insulin at lunch. After that 14 km, the blood sugar with some extra sips of Ucan was still around 9-10 mmol/l. A bit high, but you can walk on it. So without waiting or eating too long, I continued on my path.
The walk went reasonably well, despite the fear for the time. Until after the tunnel under the railway. There we joined the group of 28 km runners. A broad ribbon of runners that moved just a bit faster than me. They were fresh, I had already done more than half a marathon. So I decided to let them pass when the route became narrower. This mileage is always a bit tricky for me in terms of food. Nougat and some extra sports drinks were okay.
Not much later groups of 18-km runners joined us. Now it really started to become a problem. Most of them didn't run much faster than me, but here the path was narrow and they ran wide. This was really bad for my rhythm. I tried to get out of the way again, grabbed a new bag of Ucan (used 1 before and 2 during the run), but they kept coming. I could not find my rhythm. Also, some runners had comments about the speed. It did not feel good. If it is timed like this again next year, I will not participate again.
Glider
The redemption came not much later, at a village where one of the used gliders could be seen. First of all I got some extra courage because I saw Wouter on the mountainbike, who also noticed that I was still walking. Secondly because the shorter distances here took their time to look at the exhibition. I myself was still afraid of the time, so I continued. Even at care station two I only stayed a short while. The wider roads and the congestion had cleared the way for me to follow my own pace again.
Because right after this the Stuwwal started, the 18 km split off again, so I didn't have to worry about being run over again. But I was already having a hard time here. The pace was off a bit and the legs felt sour. Every uphill is almost a walk, downhill a walk again. In that respect, the Stuwwal was more like a long break.
The flat section after that with the church and quite a lot of paved roads felt much less pleasant. Here I really suffered from fatigue. I was a bit fed up with the fact that the cemetery was not there yet, even though we were almost in Arnhem. I was also fed up with the hard paths, the raised tractor tracks, the long hills, et cetera. And many people complained with me. It is also notable that on this part of the trail people often asked if I was doing well because of the mud and open knees. I was not really bothered by that. But the upper legs were on fire.
Crosses
For a while I was running with a lady in tartan tight who was also having a dip and aches. We took turns doing run-walk-runs and we calculated that we still had enough time to finish, even if we would only walk. That was reassuring and helped to run a little further each time.
Suddenly it was there, the long awaited cemetery. There I was overtaken by Olav, Tony and some RMD people. Until then only Rob and Dennis had passed me (ok Simone and Christa also passed me, but they did the 28 km). No sign of Frank and co. Apparently I did pretty well in terms of time. Fortunately, because at the cemetery I really wanted to stop. That was an emotional moment.
I placed the cross that we received from the organization on the grave of an unknown soldier. That touches me, that someone gives himself for our freedom. Literally disappears, because we don't even know who it is anymore and so there are no loved ones and relatives who can pay their last respects here.
Engine on
It's always weird how suddenly easy it is to run again when you smell the finish line (8 uninteresting kilometers). Finishing with Olav and the group didn't quite work out, but the last few kilometers were seriously faster again. Walking breaks were shorter. And I was happy to arrive within the time limit: 5 hours, 46 minutes and 58 seconds according to my watch (I don't pause stops on the Suunto; this is arrival start time). All things considered, I seem to be faster on the trails than on the road. What is the cause? Nutrition: all three times I took a blood sample, the blood sugar was slightly elevated 9-10 mmol/l.
For those who want to know, this was the feed:
- One to half an hour before: 1 bag of Ucan chocolate
- A bag of Ucan tasteless to km or 22
- A bag of Ucan that lasted up to 36 km
- 1.5 bag Torq Orange (made up at care station 3 at 36 km)
- Two pieces of nougat
- A peanut butter flavored Hammer gel
Now that I had made it to the bus, I could return to Papendal to shower. Unfortunately my lift there had other plans, but luckily I could go with Rob and Dennis to Rotterdam. Of course after first visiting the Mac in RMD tradition. Late and exhausted I arrived back in Pijnacker.
A day later I'm hardly stiff anymore and walk about five miles. When is the next trail?
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